Ballerina, you say?
Yes, because Japanese anemones will enchant you with joyful choruses of exuberant round buds on tall, graceful stems. Upon opening, their pert “tutus” of petals bob and dance as if on tiptoe in the slightest breeze. Hence their common name, windflower.
Japanese anemones (actually Chinese in origin but bred for centuries in Japan) have been around a long time, but in the West not everyone knows about or grows them. Anemones are members of the buttercup family. Not to be confused with spring-blooming anemones known as Grecian windflowers, A. blanda, A. coronaria, A. canadensis and A. sylvestris, the spring bloomers grow from corms and have low daisy-like flowers. They’re lovely in their own right, but not my focus today.
Popular Fall Cultivars
Anemone x hybrida, A. tomentosa and A. hupehensis on the other hand, represent the herbaceous species that bloom very late. Most cultivars on the market today are derived from these three species. A general summary chart for fall anemones follows this article.
If you’re familiar with anemones at all, you probably know the two most popular fall cultivars, a pristine white named Honorine Jobert and Robustissima, a medium tonal pink. Both are tall and hardy and no-fuss to grow, with Robustissima a bit easier of the two.
At least nine other hybrids are available as singles, semi-doubles and doubles, in various shades of pink and white. If you can’t find what you want locally, the better mail order houses carry them. With their neat maple leaf-shaped basal foliage and exceptionally clean habit, anemones look at home in both formal borders and naturalized settings. The plant in bud (late July to early August here) is architecturally arresting as well.
A new hybrid for me this year is a rich pink double called Margarete that’s doing really well. It’s half the height of Robustissima (so far) and that’s fine, because it looks great just in front of, and against, Robustissima’s bushy foliage. The brilliant magenta flowers compliment and echo the paler shades of Robustissima above. I have it tucked between two peonies, with iris, phlox, coneflowers and cranesbill.
Update, as of September 2023: Margarete is now as tall as Robustissima this year, and just as robust. The two cultivars are blooming simultaneously. A great example of how some cultivars take their sweet time to establish before showing their full potential.
Margarete blooms late and long, well into October, while Robustissima begins in early August and finishes as September ebbs. Honorine Jobert is also late, blooming primarily in September through October.
Sometimes Robustissima and Honorine Jobert need staking. I prefer to let mine lean the direction they’re most comfortable, unless they encroach too much. I like the informality of their languid poses.
Growing
Anemones can be reticent to establish because they hate being disturbed. So, put them where you’re unlikely to have to move them. I had poor luck with a new hybrid I bought last year, Whirlwind, and a few Honorines gifted to me from a friend didn’t take either. Young plants are more likely to survive a move than older transplants. But once anemones establish, they will be vigorous to the point of smothering their neighbors if you let them. They’re not picky about soil and mature specimens are both drought tolerant and storm-proof. Older plants may get some mildew or leaf discoloration late in the season, but overall they’re tough and carefree perennials.
Plant in spring in mostly sun or part sun. They like some shade, but not all shade. Be sure to allow them room and ensure good drainage. (Since I have heavy clay, they’re on my bank). They will definitely spread but in a way that’s easy to control. I love these guys so much I don’t see having more as a problem, yet. Just move any offshoots to a new spot the following spring. They can be slow to emerge in spring, so mark the spot if they’re new. Deer won’t touch them either, a nice bonus! (Update: They will if they’re hungry enough. But not aggressively…so far!)
You can leave them standing after blooming for a short time if you like, but eventually you’ll want to cut them to the ground for the winter, as they will turn black.
Companion Plants
Anemones look good with just about anything that’s not too delicate, which they could soon overwhelm. If you don’t have room in your regular beds, consider placing them in the wider landscape near shrubs; perhaps with viburnum, beautyberry or conifers, or along a woodland edge. They can be useful in effectively hiding yellowing bulb foliage. I especially like them against a contrasting dark or plain backdrop so when they bloom, the flowers really pop.
Asters and mums work well as companions, as do roses, phlox, grasses like Shenandoah switchgrass or the foxtail types, sedum, agastache, salvias, iris, or simply tucked into gaps where you need some extra foliage. In informal naturalized settings, consider burnet (sanguisorba) or bistort (persicaria amplexicaulis) with it. I’m sure you’ll find the perfect spot.
Lastly, cut anemones make good additions to fall arrangements. Below, the gathered-up odds and ends from my garden last year include pink anemones. The arrangements are a bit of a mish-mash, but a welcome “last hurrah” to close out the cut flower season.
Go ahead, try some anemones!
