With so many designs and styles to choose from these days, buying (or building) a bird feeder can be a bewildering experience. Should you get a “squirrel-proof” one with a wire cage that birds have to navigate? Will a simple tube feeder do? How much seed will that cute little plastic number hold?
Then there’s all those bags of food to put in the feeder. What’s in all those mixes, anyway? Are all those suet cake flavors necessary?
I certainly can’t answer all your questions, but after a lifetime of feeding the birds (60 years and counting) I’ve gone through a lot of feeders and discovered a few tips and tricks along the way. Two excellent birding organizations I trust, Aububon.org and Cornell Lab of Ornithology, provide expert bird habitat, diet and feeding information on their websites.
The good news is, there’s a feeder style for every overwintering bird you want to attract. The bad news is no single feeder or foodstuff will attract them all. You need to invest in several styles and foods to attract the greatest variety of birds. There’s no right or wrong way to do this; experiment! But if you want to optimize your luck, here are my suggestions on getting the most out of your feeding stations.
Stationary and Pole Feeders
If you can only manage one feeder, the style which attracts the most species is a stationary one. It should be mounted on a sturdy pole, ideally fitted with a baffle or sliding sleeve, and stocked with straight black oil sunflower seed, or mixes that are primarily sunflower. Even birds that prefer other styles and foods will come to a pole feeder with sunflower seed some of the time. More species feel secure on a stationary feeder than any other style.
TIP: To minimize waste and kickout, I block off 3 of the 6 ports on our pole model. There’s still plenty of access for the birds, but the feeder empties much more slowly, saving seed and money.
A benefit of pole feeders is their size, plus stability. They’re often large because they can support the weight of a lot of seed, meaning fewer fill-ups for you. But they do need to be mounted securely. A pole hammered 6 inches into the ground and fortified with rocks will work fine. These days, we use a removable set-up trick described below:
TRICK: A buried concrete base will stabilize the pole, and it can be capped off in summer for easy removal. This allows you to securely set up and take down your feeder in minutes. Make the setup from a small bag of Ready-mix, galvanized couplings and a few standard pipe sections. Squirt threads with a lubricant such as WD-40 to prevent lockup. When you’re ready, just uncap the base (a pipe wrench is helpful) screw in the pole and mount your feeder. Reverse the steps in spring.
Pole feeders can also be mounted on a deck railing or pergola with a bracket that will withstand the elements (and marauding racoons).
The down side of a pole feeder is English sparrows and house finches tend to monopolize it, blocking other birds for long periods. Starlings will also mob a pole feeder. Jays can sometimes be a problem because they will guzzle a lot of seeds at once. But their preference are mixes containing peanuts or corn, not plain sunflower seeds. Never offer cracked corn in a pole feeder unless you want nothing but sparrows, finches, starlings and jays! And boy, can they go through it…they’ll empty a full feeder in half a day.
Hanging Feeders
Suspended feeders are popular with people and birds, and an absolute necessity if you get the occasional bear. Chickadees, wrens, nuthatches, siskins and titmice actually prefer hanging feeders to a pole or fixed feeder. They don’t mind the movement because it mimics swaying vegetation, whereas sparrows prefer stationary ports. More importantly, there’s less competition from large birds at most hanging feeders.
Models with coated wire sleeves or cages are favorites of woodpeckers and nuthatches in particular, because they can scramble all over it, even perch upside down. Large mesh or wire baskets also work well.
Squirrel-proof models with a weight-operated sleeve or closure cost more but they last many seasons. Cardinals in particular like them. The all-metal designs are nearly indestructible, reliably thwart squirrels and keep the seed dry in even the worst weather. Some models are double-sided with twice the ports. You can adjust the closure mechanism for heavier birds or squirrels, which is really helpful.
TRICK: To accomodate two hanging feeders efficiently, mount them on a T-pole or one with “arms”. Be sure the feeders have plenty of unobstructed space between them. Birds pursued by hawks (who stalk bird feeders in winter) need ample room to make fast getaways.
What to Look For in A Feeder
When shopping for any feeder, look at the port holes and make sure they are large enough so the contents won’t easily jam. (Many mixes containing “fruit” often gum up the ports and also rot in wet weather.) Some feeders are made just for nyger (niger) or thistle seed, and those ports are tiny! Perches should be made of sturdy plastic, resin-coated metal or wood. Keep in mind that bare metal perches can freeze and turn slippery in sleet, discouraging the birds. Whatever style you choose, the design should be easy to fill and come apart for cleaning.
TIP: To more easily fill feeders with narrow necks, you can fashion a homemade scoop from a sturdy recycled plastic container, such as a jug used for windshield washer fluid. Use the mouth as a funnel and the cut-away bottom (with the cap on) as a scoop. I’ve had this one for many years. The plastic stays flexible in cold weather and it’s comfortable to handle without gloves. You can simply squeeze the scoop mouth narrower to accommodate a variety of openings.
Plastic feeders are cute and economical, but they can blow away, break easily and don’t hold a lot. I like them for offering small amounts of special foods like mealworms, so I tend to put them out only when deep snow is on the ground or it’s brutally cold. Otherwise I hate the constant attention they require. But that’s just me; use whatever style you like as long as you keep it filled.
TIP: Bluebirds will come to a feeder for mealworms, but rarely just for seed unless it’s soft and unhulled. They prefer berries, peanut meal or insects; same for thrushes. If you see bluebirds or thrushes nearby, scatter a few mealworms on the ground under the feeder first, to help them discover it.
Troubleshooting
Two years ago on impulse, I purchased an attractive “birch log” hanging style feeder, only to discover the birds wanted no part of it. It hung for days with no action. I soon realized the metal perches were too short and slippery for even the small birds. The shiny aluminum port guards caught the sun and flashed like a mirror, scaring the birds as well.
So I duct-taped wooded dowels to the perches and covered the shiny aluminum with more tape. Within 15 minutes of rehanging, the modified feeder was patronized! It’s now so active it’s the first feeder to need refilling. Luckily, this pretty but poorly designed feeder was easy to remedy. Next time, I won’t be so hasty to buy without checking it out more thoroughly first.
If you’ve got a feeder with very few customers, think hard about why. It could be as simple as too bright a color. Or the seed could be caked inside, and spoiled. That’s often the case after a bad storm.
TIP: Birds prefer simple designs that look familiar and mimic nature. Once you start feeding them, keep it up. They will come to depend on it.
Multi-feeders
I haven’t tried bundled tubes or the designs with extra compartments for multiple mixes, but as a general rule I don’t recommend them. Birds are competitive, and the shyest species will avoid confrontation with the garrulous ones whenever possible. Forcing them into such close proximity on a dual-food feeder works against their natural behavior.
While shy birds can certainly “take turns” with their ebullient brethren, the experience can cause stress and reduce visitation. That’s not to say these designs are bad; I just don’t think they’re optimal. If you’ve had good luck with this style, let us know in the comments.
I find birds are happiest when different feeders– and the foods in them– are kept somewhat apart. They need breathing room just like we do.
TRICK: Make sure your feeders are located near another perch where the birds can watch for predators. It can be a branch, a railing, or a shepherd’s crook. All birds appreciate a convenient lookout nearby to wait their turn. A perch about three to five yards away should increase feeder attendance if no such spot existed before.
Thistle Feeders
These feeders are either skinny plastic tubes, rigid mesh cylinders, or soft mesh “socks”. They are made specifically to hold nyjer or thistle seed, the very tiny, black crescent-shaped seeds that goldfinches love. Be aware that goldfinches — and only goldfinches– will eat thistle seed from a feeder like this, and they are often absent in winter for weeks on end. So the seed often goes begging. Special finch food containing small particles of sunflower seeds is very popular, though. But some particles don’t fit through the feeder holes, causing waste and spoilage. Just be sure to dump out the accumulated waste at the bottom before refilling.
Thistle seed spoils quickly in rain and snow, especially in exposed socks and cylinders. You might want to wait until you see goldfinches actively feeding in your landscape before putting these out. Otherwise you will likely have a lot of waste. If there’s been no recent activity, open the feeder and poke it. Often the rotting seeds have fused into a solid mass and must be cleaned out.
I find the best time to feed goldfinches is late winter into early spring, when natural food is very scarce. They really patronize the feeders then.
Suet Cages and Logs
Most of us know woodpeckers adore suet. They will also eat peanuts, berries and sunflower seeds, either loose or compressed into blocks. But they’re not crazy about cracked corn or millet, common fillers in many commercial suet cakes. On the other hand, so-called “problem birds” like starlings and grackles gobble up the corn. If you want woodpeckers but not starlings, avoid suet products containing corn — sadly, that’s most of them! The big compressed seed blocks, however, work great.
TIP: Seek out a country butcher or farmer’s market and buy raw suet straight off a beef carcass. Beef suet should be pure white and crumbly with a papery husk of connective skin; it’s not a fistful of fatty trimmings, which will quickly spoil and is far too tough for most birds. Good suet is cheap, freezes great and keeps extremely well outdoors in cold weather. No, it doesn’t smell or spoil easily, and a big chunk will last for weeks. Try it. Chickadees, flickers, mockingbirds, nuthatches and titmice will come too, as well as every woodpecker within miles!
Size Matters: Match Feeder to Bird
Downy woodpeckers can cling to small suet cakes, but hairys and red-bellied woodpeckers are too ungainly for small cages. And, these larger woodpeckers really need a tail prop! A tail prop is a wooden extension below the suet box where these guys can balance themselves upright using their tail like a third leg (a tripod!). Their legs are mounted so far back on their bodies, they aren’t able to perch upright like songbirds. A tail prop is therefore essential for them to even sit on the feeder.
TRICK: If you have woodpeckers but they’re not coming to your suet, a built-in tail prop might make all the difference. (Royal Wing makes one; there may be other brands.) See if a tail prop helps. You can easily make one if you’d rather not buy a new feeder.
To accommodate both large and small suet-eating birds, we use large and small cages mounted on shepherd’s crooks. A baffle is a good idea here, not just to deflect squirrels, but also racoons. (If you have racoons, a shepherd’s crook may not be sturdy enough — they will just push it over, or climb it until it falls. Instead, mount your suet feeder on a sturdy pole outfitted with a sliding sleeve designed to deter racoons.)
TIP: Inexpensive, spring-loaded “orchid clips” make handy closures for small suet cages! So easy to use in cold weather with gloves on! Twist-ties work too, but ties are harder to manipulate wearing gloves.
Build It Yourself
If you’re fortunate enough to live near a wooded tract, you might get to see pileated woodpeckers on occasion. If you know they’re in the area, or you have lots of red-bellied and hairy woodpeckers, consider making them their own suet feeder. In winter, pileateds will come to suet if they can get to it easily and they aren’t too exposed.
Of course, you might also get squirrels and other suet lovers, and certainly all woodpeckers will find it. At my previous residence we had pileateds often. It was wonderful to be able to feed them in winter.
TRICK: Build a simple, open-sided 12″ X 8″ X 6″ box with a hinged lid, preferably from wood with bark on it. Add a few steel or chew-resistant bars (add hardware cloth if you have racoons) to hold in the suet. Securely screw the whole thing to a large tree trunk, and mount a short log or block below for a tail prop. Then watch the action! It might take a little time for them to find it but once they do, you’ll have lots of woodpeckers all winter.
Even at our current townhome, a pileated visited us this summer. Their numbers are increasing in the suburbs, thanks to so many standing dead ash and other trees. They’re really fun to watch, and their call is quite the rallying cry. Usually you hear them before you see them. They’re so big, and their coloring so dramatic, the sight (and sound!) is always a thrill.
TIP: Simple suet containers can be made from recycled strawberry boxes, chicken wire, driftwood with holes drilled in it, and the like. The more natural it looks, the faster the birds will adapt to it. Fill with peanut pellets, mealworms, suet, stale raisins, peanut butter etc. All the smaller birds enjoy these.
Clean Fresh Water
The other really important amenity for winter birds is a dependable supply of fresh water. This is especially true when it’s below freezing. Birds that rarely frequent feeders will readily come to water, allowing you to observe even more species, like thrushes and bluebirds. Doves love to drink daily at birdbaths. Sparrows, juncos, robins, siskins and finches will even bathe in winter sometimes, if the sun is out.
TIP: Use a heated birdbath element to prevent freezing, which can otherwise crack a birdbath in short order. These units draw very little current and don’t actually make the water warm; they just keep it a few degrees above freezing. Most cost between $20 – $30 and will last several seasons. Be sure to use an extension cord made specifically for outdoor use. If desired, add a few rocks to hold things in place. Flat rocks also provide shallow areas with firm footing for bathing.
The birdbath pictured is homemade from hypertufa…but that’s another article entirely! Whatever your birdbath is made of, it’s best if it can withstand freeze and thaw cycles. Also consider a bird-safe enzyme additve formulated to reduce algae and bacteria in fountains and birdbaths. An 8 oz. bottle costs about $10 and will last most of the winter. Check the water level, top up or change it every few days.
A Quick Word About Seed Mixes
I’m a strong proponent of feeding straight black oil sunflower seed, because this variety is very rich in oil, providing more energy ounce for ounce than almost any other food except peanuts. Safflower seeds also provide plenty of oil, but only cardinals eat safflower seed.
Mealworms are a fantastic food source high in protein. Better yet, birds that don’t eat seeds will readily consume mealworms such as bluebirds, thrushes, robins, mockingbirds and wrens. Nuthatches and titmice also love them. As you probably know, mealworms (and soldier fly larvae) come dessicated and are expensive. The birds practically inhale them, so I either mix them in with other seeds, or reserve them for the worst storms in the coldest months. Obviously the deluxe mixes containing worms are a great choice, but they can be pricey.
Peanuts and peanut butter-based pellets provide excellent fat for energy, and are also a very good choice. But not all birds will eat peanut products. For details, I urge you to check out the Cornell and Audubon websites for help on which birds eat what foodstuffs.
What Not to Feed
There are two grains to use minimally, if you can: millet and corn. Red millet is used as a filler in many mixes and most suet cakes. While parakeets might like it, wild birds don’t other than sparrows. White millet is better, but it’s not a favorite. Both kinds account for a lot of “feeder waste”. It gets kicked out by birds searching for something more appetizing. It also falls to the bottom of tube feeders and rots, jamming the lower ports. Fortunately, juncos, white-throats and doves will usually eat white millet off the ground. But even they prefer other choices.
Cracked corn is the other problem grain. It’s not very nutritious because the stuff used in birdseed mixes is missing the germ, and it tends to attract the “wrong” kind of birds: starlings, grackles, crows, jays, cowbirds, English sparrows. But if these birds are what you have to work with, then by all means feed them corn! Just be aware that a strong presence of the “thug” birds makes it harder to attract shy species. There’s nothing inherently wrong with feeding corn. I think of it as the avian version of binging on corn chips…bird junk food!
Finally, I find some of the marketing claims on the “flavors” of suet cake a bit of a stretch. Nearly all contain a lot of corn, with a few kernels or pieces of stray fruit tossed in to look nice. I think they are mostly the same recipe with very minor differences. Don’t be surprised if you’re not seeing any new visitors, or attracting the birds you’re supposed to, from cake to cake. The better quality cakes have a higher proportion of ingredients other than corn, so read the labels and examine them carefully if it matters to you.
I hope this exhaustive article is helpful as you enjoy your feathered friends this winter. Keep the binoculars handy, and let us know which species you’re having success with in the comments.
Happy birding!
