Who doesn’t love conifers, those graceful needled trees and shrubs that stay beautiful year round for almost no care? We admire their proud outlines on our walks, or laden with lights at the holidays. Just the word “conifer” brings to mind twisted pines, stately spruce and snow-covered fir forests. Yet as much as we covet them, our properties are often too small for more than one or two of these beauties, if that. They take up waaayyyy too much space– or so we tell ourselves.
Luckily there are some terrific smaller choices on the market which provide all the benefits of standard-size conifers (except shade) without compromising space. Think of “dwarf” conifers as you would any other small to medium-sized shrub.
Dwarf conifers aren’t just for bonsai enthusiasts and model railroaders. They’re perfect for all size yards because they can fit in anywhere. To satisfy growing demand, breeders are introducing scaled-down varieties all the time. Visit any well-stocked nursery and the selection is almost overwhelming; the trade is way past ho-hum arborvitae, Alberta spruce and gold thread cypress. Not that there’s anything wrong with these cultivars; it’s just nice to have more choices.
I love walking around our neighborhood and admiring the many conifers, both standard and dwarf. They contribute such interest to the landscape with wonderful texture and intriguing presence.
So how big is “dwarf”?
A “dwarf” conifier is smaller than the standard size of the same variety, that’s obvious. But how much smaller? For consistency, sizing is compared at the 10-year benchmark.
- Dwarf means the tree will be 5 feet tall at 10 years of age
- Semi-dwarf or “intermediate” trees will be 10 feet tall at 10 years
IMPORTANT: It doesn’t necessarily mean the tree will stop growing when it reaches ten years old! Some will, yes. But others keep growing, so be sure to ask. A 10-foot-tall tree at ten years old can end up 15 to 20 feet tall in twenty years and be considered semi-dwarf, especially if the standard is much taller than that at the same age.
For foolproof choices that absolutely won’t outgrow a small space, you can always stick with those labeled miniature or prostrate. Miniatures never exceed 5 feet, and prostrate forms are essentially ground covers.
Regardless of size, dwarf, semi-dwarf and miniature conifers are among the best forms of tree you can plant.
Pros
- Year-round interest and beauty
- Compact size; won’t outgrow your space
- Maintenance-free
- Eco-friendly
- Privacy screening
- Enhancers of property value
- Versatile and easy to grow
- Better at handling climate extremes than standard conifers
Cons
- Somewhat susceptible to climate stressers, but often better than standards in this regard
- Need slightly acidic soil with good humus, which not everyone has
A word about climate impact
We’re all aware of more temperature extremes, worsening storms and hotter, wetter summers. Certain pines, the Colorado blue spruce and a few firs are under climate-related stress like never before, with many succumbing to disease and pests made worse by these changes. Standard Colorado spruce has been hit especially hard in Pennsylvania and the Northeast generally.
Fortunately the dwarf and semi-dwarf cultivars are proving quite hardy and disease resistant. Among the toughest are Mugo pines, dwarf Norway spruces, Nordmann fir cultivars, and Japanese pines. So while all conifers are under threat, dwarf cultivars are generally quite tough.
Conifer Families
Seven families make up the bulk of conifers: Fir (Abies), Pine (Pinus), Spruce (Picea), Cypress / False Cypress (Chamaecyparis / Cupressus), Juniper (Juniperus), Cedar (Cedrus), and Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria). There are a few outliers like larches, but these are the main ones.
I’m not going to go into all their different characteristics such as needle length or cone size here. Suffice it to say there are dwarf forms with different characteristics in all families. Do pay attention to which family a particular cultivar belongs to, though, because each has unique features and habits. (Deer will eat cypress for instance, but not juniper.)
Using Dwarf Conifers
Size aside, dwarfs and semi-dwarfs come in a wide range of colors and forms. Many produce interesting cones just like standard conifers do. The two biggest mail order houses that sell conifers, Singing Tree Gardens and Conifer Kingdom, each offer over 350 cultivars and counting. That’s a lot to choose from!
It’s always a good idea to research your choices online before you buy. But I recommend getting your conifers locally (if possible) so you can pick out your specimens in person. You want healthy, shapely trees.
That said, I’ve had pretty good luck ordering trees and shrubs through the mail, so don’t hesitate to order something if that’s the only way you can get it. Most of the less common choices must be mail-ordered.
So, what do you look for when shopping for one?
Consider shape first.
Since your choice must fit wherever you put it once fully grown, shape and form has to be your first consideration.
Got a narrow space?
Sure you could use arborvitae, but there are a number of other choices. For example, in my front bed between the house foundation and the driveway I’ve used Japanese white pine Glauca and a Lawson cypress called Pelt’s Blue. Both are columnar in habit and can be further pruned or sheared if necessary.
Use color strategically.
Basic green is always in vogue and you can never go wrong with it. But don’t discount some of the new conifer colors. Today’s cultivars let you play with a range of blues, cream-tipped, chartreuse, nearly black, bright yellow and burnished golds. By pairing, contrasting and repeating unexpected shades you can take your planting to the next level. Interspersing perennials between them gives you even more options for unique groupings.
Choice Companions
Conifers look good with just about everything, but a few pairings stand out as especially eye-catching. One is heathers and heaths, because they resemble conifers with similar colors and forms. Heathers and heaths prefer slightly alkaline soil, so you may need to adjust the soil ph accordingly. Birches and Japanese maples are simply stunning with conifers. Roses look good with them too, especially landscape roses.
Another fun companion is blue fescue grass such as ‘Elijah’, as you can see in the photo below. I used it to create a unifying repetition of round shapes in soft blue. Notice how the dwarf blue spruce plays off the fescue. Blue Star junipers (not visible) add color and texture, especially in winter. A contrasting Golden Spreader fir and several heaths echo the yellow barberry, with the dwarf Korean Silberlocke fir in back repeating the blues again in a different shape.
The overall effect is a rhythm of color and form, punctuated by pink roses, peonies and spirea. You can do something similar with any combination of plants that you want. I suggest using no more than 3 colors (plus white) for the most cohesive look.
Dwarf conifers are a natural pairing for other short evergreens too, like azalea, box, low hollies, cherry laurels, hellebores and so on. But don’t stop there…the combinations are endless!
Growing Dwarf Conifers
To promote healthy growth, dwarf conifers are easy to please. The same conditions that sustain standard conifers work just fine for the dwarfs. While they’re not picky plants, keep a few things in mind:
Full sun is a must. “Full” means 6 hours or more of direct sun a day. Conifers with yellow, cream, blue or variegated needles will appreciate light or dappled shade during the afternoon or midday. This is not always possible but helps prevent needle scorch. With less chlorophyll to protect them, they need to stay cooler during the worst heat of the day.
According to the American Conifer Society, most firs prefer an eastern exposure. The others are less picky as long as sunlight is plentiful.
Good drainage is essential. Conifers hate wet feet and will die if drainage is poor. Most need regular watering the first year or two while establishing, but once they’re older, they cope with dry spells quite well. On the other hand, prolonged wet conditions foster fungal issues like root rot. Redirect runoff from downpouts if necessary, and consider planting new specimens on a berm or slope if you have heavy clay or poor drainage. During dry periods water conifers occasionally but deeply.
Mulch annually at first. Mulch suppresses weeds and regulates moisture uptake. Keep the mulch at least 3 inches away from the trunk. Over time as fallen needles build up underneath, there will be less need for supplemental mulch. Leave the dead needles in place so they break down and return nutrients (and acidity) to the soil.
Slightly acidic soil is ideal. If you have healthy azaleas and rhododendrons, you already have the right ph for conifers. If not, it can be easily achieved with a top dressing of pine mulch, moistened peat moss, pine straw or even wood chips. According the the American Conifer Society, you can also mulch lightly with an organic compost containing worm castings and a sulphur amendment (to increase acidity) as directed on the package.
If you’re not sure of your soil’s ph, you can test it yourself with a kit, or send a soil sample to your local agricultural extension. Chemical amendments such as fertilizer are not recommended when planting a conifer. Some growers recommend a mycorrhizal fungi additive. The success of this practice is controversial as noted by the American Conifer Society. I’ve done it both ways and didn’t notice a difference.
Watch out for walnut toxin. If you have black walnut trees, avoid planting conifers under the walnut canopy. Walnuts exude a toxin called juglone through their roots, nuts and leaves that can seriously inhibit conifer growth. Eastern hemlocks, however, will tolerate it (because the two species evolved together). Black walnut trees overhang my border, so it made sense to plant a hemlock there. (The Chief Joseph pine died, sadly.)
Inspect for pests and disease. At least once a year look for signs of wilt, fungus, dieback, galls, resin ooze or discoloration. Most problems can be treated successfully if caught early; the key is detection before the problem becomes serious. Thankfully most dwarf cultivars are very hardy and disease-resistant, and will remain healthy for years.
Resist pruning except to remove damaged branches or slow the speed of growth. To avoid disturbing the overall shape, you can remove just the new growth in spring, called candling. (New shoots are called candles, which they resemble.)
Enjoy your picks. I hope I’ve convinced you to reconsider dwarf conifers for your own landscape. I confess I’m something of a conifer freak. They bring me joy and beauty every day, and I know they’ll continue to do so for years. Next time you’re thinking of spicing up your landscape, don’t forget these fun, sturdy sun lovers!
fantastic
Thanks!