Drying Hydrangeas for Arrangements

Few shrubs provide as much seasonal interest as hydrangeas, regardless of cultivar. Starting in early summer, they bloom abundantly and with longevity, persevering right through the hottest days and the worst downpours of summer. The flower heads are composed of hardy structures more akin to paper than petals, called bracts. Mophead varieties are mostly dense clusters of bracts. Lacecap forms have an outer layer of larger bracts that encircle tiny, fertile florets nestled in the center.  Because bracts are so sturdy, the blooms last all summer. Drying them for arrangements can extend the season of enjoymenr even longer.

By early fall, the oldest flower heads are becoming burnished with age. Some cultivars change color naturally as the summer progresses. Whites, soft blues and pistachio greens take on dusty olive and beige tones; some tinge pink or lavender, others go burgundy-brown and old rose.

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Several hues are often present on the same bush at once, even on the same bloom. If you’re lucky, or if you trimmed your hydrangeas a bit in midsummer, you’ll likely have a few new ones just opening in the plant’s original color, right along with the older tinted ones.

When to harvest cuttings

While you can take cuttings anytime as long as the stems have partially hardened, September and October is the perfect time to do this. Most hydrangeas dry well. The lacecap types less so, but panicle, conical, and mophead forms dry just fine. Cultivars that hold up in fresh arrangements in water usually also dry with minor loss in quality. If not, there’s little to lose…when a few don’t work out, you’ve simply deadheaded sooner than usual!

Cultivars that dry very well for me include H. serrata Preziosa; H.paniculata Quickfire (and Little Quickfire); H. paniculata Little Lime (and its big brother Limelight). Oakleaf blooms are a bit large for my taste so I don’t bother with them, but there’s no reason you couldn’t try a few if you like them.

I don’t grow sun-loving mopheads or any of the macrophyllas, but I imagine they would work. Since these bloom on old wood, hardening off the stems should not be a problem. Many lacecaps shrivel or aren’t the right shape, so you’ll need to experiment if you have those. I can attest that the lacecap Haas Halo is not a good candidate for drying. Not only does it shrivel, the blooms are the size and shape of dessert plates — not exactly easy to work with in a vase.

I normally take a few blooms in late July to ensure I will have enough pale green material, and again when they start to tinge pale pink. Then I wait until fall to cut the bulk of the rest. Because I partially prune my Little Limes in July, I get a good flush of fresh white blooms in September and October along with the older burnished ones. This guarantees I have a range of color to choose from. Fortunately, most of the green pigment is retained for at least a year. Eventually they will fade to tan. Pinks and burgundies last much longer.

To take cuttings

Pick individual blooms that are as perfect as possible with good color.  Avoid any with crushed bracts, those lying on the ground or with a misshapen shape.  Ensure each has a fairly straight, semi-woody stem at least a foot long or longer; it can always be shortened later.

Use a clippers or pruner. A good place to cut is just above a leaf node. Don’t break or twist the stem off. You want a clean, sharp cut that will seal quickly and a strong, undamaged stem. Remove any side branchlets. Carefully strip all the leaves off with your hand, including any tiny ones hiding under the flower bracts.

Continue until you have collected enough for at least one full arrangement, about eight or nine heads. I usually take a few more to give myself a selection.  I also take different sizes.  Arrangements look best when the bloom sizes vary.

To dry cuttings

Drying is really easy. You can either splay the cuttings upright in a container or lay them flat. Just be sure they are out of the sun and humidity.  It could be on a table in a shed, garage, attic or spare room. I often use an empty vase or glass jar. That way there’s no danger of them developing a flat side from laying. (If laid flat, turn them after a day.) I’ve done it both ways very successfully. Avoid hanging them in bunches like herbs. You don’t want gravity to distort the flowerheads.

The initial drying takes only a day or two, but leave them alone for a full week. They need to be dry to the point of crisp and the stem should be rigid. Once thoroughly dry, they will keep indefinitely. They will be more delicate and can start to shed little fragments if jostled, so handle them gently.

Using dried cuttings

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Usually I arrange dried hydrangeas by themselves because their colors harmonize so well. Sometimes I mix them in with artificials, sometimes with other dried materials. Every once in a while I’ll put them in water along with fresh flowers!  Amazingly, the water doesn’t seem to rot the dried stems, and they’re none the worse for wear afterward.  Just change the water a few times and don’t let them sit in it beyond a week. Blot the stems with a paper towel. let dry for a day and voila, they’re ready to go back into a dried arrangement, a wreath or whatever you want to do. You could even spray paint them if you wanted. They work in formal as well as informal designs.

Dried hydrangeas are versatile, fun, and if you grow them, free for the taking. Try some yourself this year and enjoy playing around!