It’s November, and the hydrangeas I pruned in July and August are still looking great. Got lots of mopheads and panicle types blooming in your yard too? If they’re holding their color and aren’t too desiccated yet, cut some now to make a quick and easy fall wreath.
If you have access to an evergreen magnolia such as Teddybear or Kay Parris, so much the better. But magnolia leaves are not a necessity. Any lustrous evergreen material that dries reasonably well will work.
No magnolia? Try some Nellie Stevens holly, Schipp laurel, Otto Luyken cherry laurel, box or privet, even long-needled pine. Or just make your wreath all hydrangea, which is lovely too. I like magnolia leaves because they dry well, add a touch of elegance and provide excellent textural contrast. Their fuzzy russet undersides are nearly as attractive as the shiny green tops.
Whatever you use, you want freshly cut material with pliable stems that will stay intact as you work with it. Fully dried flowerheads would be too brittle. If your hydrangeas are past their prime, put a reminder on your calendar to cut some earlier next season. You can make this wreath anytime, really, as long as you have enough good-looking material and a cool, airy place to dry it out.
What you’ll need:
- One 18-inch wire wreath base
- Thin flexible wire or florist’s wire
- Wire cutter or cutting pliers
- 20 – 22 hydrangea flower heads
- 6 – 7 magnolia leaf clusters
For the hydrangeas
Select large to medium-sized, relatively fresh-looking blooms with a full shape. A range of tones is nice, but all the same color is fine too. It’s okay if a few are starting to turn tan or dark, as long as they aren’t fully dried out or wilted. The variations in color is part of the charm.
Cut flower heads leaving 5 to 7 inches of stem attached. Strip off any leaves; inspect for hiding insects before bringing in.
For an 18” wreath, 20 – 22 flower heads should be enough. If your blooms are on the small side, you may need a few more.
For the foliage
Cut about a third as much material as hydrangea heads. I used 7 magnolia branch tips with a full whorl of leaves attached to each cluster, each about 7 inches long. You can pick a few single leaves to tuck in, but avoid collecting too many as they can be tedious to affix.
To assemble:
Start by bunching two medium hydrangeas and one evergreen cluster together, wiring them snugly to the frame at about the 2 o’clock mark. (I’m left-handed so this is easiest for me; if you’re right-handed feel free to start on the opposite side at 10 o’clock.)
Short pieces of wire about 4 – 5 inches long work well. Bend wire into a “U” or hairpin shape and thread it through from front to back, just under or through the florets, twisting the wire between the frame’s hoops to trap and secure the stems. Tuck the ends into the frame.
Bring any long ends of wire up and over a second time, taking care not to crush the florets. It may take more than one wire (and attempt) to attach the first set of blooms. I find starting the wrap is the hardest step, so it helps to use plenty of material and extra wire at this point. Do what works best for you. There is no right or wrong here. (Some people like a glue gun; I find the glue loosens in direct sun, so I avoid.)
Continue with another layer of flowerheads, alternating one large with two smaller. Placing the new layer over the exposed stems of the ones previously attached, working down the wreath. I let the frame extend beyond the table edge so I can easily pull the wire through from below without disturbing the top as I work.
About every three flowers, add a magnolia leaf sprig in the same manner. Lay the leaves facing upward. Trim any stems that break or stick out. Continue with more flowers. The wire frame should not be visible from the front or sides of the wrapped section.
Change direction
When you get to the bottom, you will need to switch direction to avoid creating an upside-down effect on the opposite side. The transition is best done with a magnolia cluster at about the 7 o’clock mark (or 5 o’clock, if your first cluster was placed at 10 o’clock). On the far side of the new cluster, add the next flower facing in the opposite direction and fasten.
Now jump back to the top where you began and change direction there as well. At the meeting point near the bottom, trim off the stem of the last bloom or two, and wire carefully in place over the gap.
Almost there
Hold the wreath up at eye level to check for fullness. You may need to fill in along the inside bottom or maybe the outside top with an extra bloom or two. Strive for a balanced look all around. For an extra-full look, you may want to add even more blooms here and there; that’s up to you.
Tuck in and turn any awkward-facing leaves or whatever greens you’re using. If you wish, embellish your creation with ribbon, nuts, cones, even tiny gold balls.
Voila!
Affix a small hidden loop of wire to the top of the frame. Hang it to dry naturally, preferably indoors or in an enclosed porch. Avoid overly warm spots like above the fireplace for a few days; you can hang it there once it’s fully dry. Otherwise, it may start to shrivel instead of drying gradually, which is what you want.
If you used foliage other than magnolia leaves, keep an eye on it as some evergreens can become quite brittle. If that appears to be happening, move the wreath to a cooler spot right away and keep away from candles etc.
This wreath is for indoor use only; it will not hold up outdoors. Find a prominent spot to hang it, and enjoy. Fast, beautiful, done!
Storage Tip
Slip your wreath into a lightweight plastic drape like a dry cleaning bag, tie or tape it shut to catch any debris, and hang on a clothes hanger in a dark area away from heat and humidity. If the colors turn drab over time, consider lightly gilding it with a tinge of gold or copper spray paint for a whole new look… Or just compost it all and reuse the frame to make a new one next year!
