By “true” lily, I mean the big, showy types that arise from bulbs in the Lilium family, having either trumpet-shaped blooms or recurved petals like the Turks-cap lily. Many are very fragrant as well.
Distinguishing true lilies from masquerading look-alikes can be confusing. Dozens of plants have “lily” in their common name, but aren’t really lilies at all. They’re so-named because their flowers and foliage resemble that of true lilies. Misnomers include daylilies, water lilies, toad lilies, lily of the valley, foxtail lily, calla lily, peace lily, and on and on. None of these are true lilies!
So what exactly are true lilies?
True lilies arise from fleshy bulbs or scales, and make up nine groups within the lilium genus: Asiatics, Trumpets and Aurelians, Martagons (Turks-cap), European hybrids, American hybrids, Longiflorums, Orientals, Orienpets, and Species (including tiger lilies). Whew!
It’s not necessary to know which group a lily falls into to grow it successfully. However, some perform better than others under certain conditions, with bloom times and a few other traits distinguished by type. I’ll talk about six of the most common here.
Asiatic hybrids flower in early to mid-June. Most are at least modestly fragrant. If you want an olfactory-free experience, there are a few unscented cultivars. The scented ones have “Easter lily” (Lilium longiflorum) breeding, a familiar white cultivar known for its intense perfume. Asiatics produce many blooms at once and come in a wide range of saturated colors, even intense red.
Asiatics reach an average height of 3 feet tall. The flowers generally have broad, open petals that face up or out rather than down. Easy to find, I’m sure you’ve seen or grown them. They’re a favorite for Mother’s Day gifting.
Trumpet lilies are named for their flute-shaped blooms. They include Lilium regale album, a popular white, as well as hybrids called “Aurelian”. Their breeding gives Aurelians flared petals, wide bowls and even sunburst patterning. Most are tall, have heavy sweet fragrances and come in pink, white, yellow, and soft blends. I grow Golden Splendor, a magnificent golden Aurelian washed with amber on the reverse. The curled flutes are very expressive, as you can tell by the photo.
Another popular group are the Orientals, which have a spicy scent similar to dianthus. They open in late July and August. This is a diverse group, from pastel doubles to heavily spotted blooms the size of dinner plates. The heady-fragranced white Casa Blanca is an Oriental. Exotic Stargazer is used a lot by florists. A single bloom can perfume your house for days — either a delight or a horror, depending on how you feel about strongly scented lilies!
Cutting tip — To cut lilies for the house, select blooms that are just starting to open for the longest vase life, and do it in the morning. Only take as much stem as you need; leave the rest to replenish the bulb for next year. Beware of the pollen— it will stain skin and clothes if you brush against it. You may wish to snip off the dangling anthers (the orange powder-coated parts) before taking indoors to avoid a potential mess.
As the name implies, Orienpet hybrids combine the best qualities of trumpet and oriental parentage. Orienpets are exceptionally robust with more flowers, longer bloom times, taller heights and sturdier stems. If you want the most bang for your buck, you can’t go wrong with an Orienpet, provided you have a spot where their towering height of up to 8 feet or more will be an asset, not a liability.
According to B & D Lilies in Oregon, Silk Road is the most popular Orienpet in cultivation today. I can certainly see why; mine are just spectacular. I’m not sure there’s a better attention grabber. Even the delivery people pause to gawk.
Despite tight quarters, mine thrive in a narrow 24″ bed between the driveway and house foundation. I put them there because the deer, so far, won’t venture this close to the house. (Deer just love lily buds.) And, I can enjoy them from both inside and outside! Orienpets open slowly from the bottom up, taking weeks to finish. This gives you a full month to enjoy them, fragrance and all.
Martagons (Turks-Cap)
Another captivating group are the Martagons or Turks-cap lilies, which hang their blooms in tiers like so many candelabra bulbs. They can be tricky to establish (see growing lilies below) but if you love them you will surely want to try some. The intricate blooms face down with sharply recurved petals, giving them great charm. Once established they bloom early, with or even before the Asiatics.
I’ve not had the best luck with martagons myself, perhaps because I didn’t have the necessary patience. I didn’t realize how reticent they can be! I plan to keep trying though, provided I can outwit the deer from thwarting my attempts. I think they are just enchanting.
Tiger Lilies: Lovely, but with a Caveat
Lilium lancifolium, better known as the tiger lily, is a vigorous and an old-fashioned species favorite. However, tigers can inadvertently cause problems by carrying the mosiac virus while appearing perfectly healthy.
Tiger lilies themselves are highly resistant to the virus, but they can infect other plants through transmission by aphids. Nearly all other lilies are susceptible to mosaic virus (as are roses) and there’s no cure; you’ll lose all your lilies if it takes hold. Many lily fanciers don’t grow tigers at all for this reason.
I didn’t know this until very recently. Both regular tiger lilies and the double form Flore Pleno grow in my garden, some right next to Golden Splendor. I don’t have the space to move them, either. Flore Pleno isn’t the prettiest, I’ll admit; its flowers are oddly shaped, vaguely resembling calamari, something I didn’t realize when I ordered it. Still, the soft coral-orange coloring they contribute is lovely, and they look smashing with foxgloves, delphinium and phlox. I will just have to hope for the best and vigorously control any aphid outbreaks.
Of course, you can plant tigers by themselves with no worries, as they are hardy and vigorous with a charm all their own. Just be aware of their “Trojan Horse” role with the mosaic virus!
Growing Lilies
You’ve probably heard the old adage, “Lilies like their heads in the sun and their feet in the shade.” That’s true, but it’s not an absolute, and mostly applies to the taller varieties. Plus, those conditions are easier to create than you might think. All it means is that lilies benefit from a relatively cooler, moisture-retentive soil at their base. A simple groundcover like myrtle or liriope or even a deep mulch can stand in for “shade” very successfully.
Most lilies other than martagons and trumpets like slightly acidic soil with plenty of organic matter, but loosened clay is also acceptable. A south-facing slope in full sun is ideal. If you don’t have a south slope, just ensure they get plenty of morning sun. Some afternoon shade is fine and even desirable. The more shade they’re in, the more the stems may “stretch” toward the light, but they will still bloom.
Pure-bred trumpets need protected locations with moderate winter temperatures. If you want to grow them in zone 6, they should be sited carefully, maybe near a wall, and kept well-mulched in winter as a precaution. An annual lime dressing is helpful.
New lilies are normally planted “bare root” in the fall (unless you buy a potted specimen in spring). The “bulbs” are not true bulbs at all, but fleshy scales. Scales lack the protective skin of a bulb and never go completely dormant, so they should not be allowed to dry out. Get them in the ground as soon as you can.
Plant them roughly 2 and a half times their height below the surface, without amendments. If in doubt, shallower is better than too deep; lilies have the unique ability to pull themselves deeper into the soil if necessary. Water them and be sure to mark where they are. Mulch them well once the soil freezes.
Martagons prefer alkaline or sweet soil in dappled shade or half sun. Do not add peat. If you have acidic soil or clay, treat the area annually with some lime. Martagons often take a year or two to establish before flowering, and about 20% may not even come up the first year! Remember to mark where they are and don’t do like I did and give up! Some of them just take their good sweet time establishing.
Protect and Stake
Lilies are fast growers once they break dormancy. Fertilize in early spring as the shoots emerge, and again just as the flower buds begin to open. They consume tremendous energy just getting to bud stage.
Taller lilies benefit from staking. I found that a cylindrical tomato cage works great. Whether you use individual stakes and twine or a cage, do it early. Don’t attempt to bend a wayward shoot into submission– because it will snap. Storms and high winds can wreak havoc on unsupported stems heavy with buds, so consider that when you site your lilies. A wall or dense shrubbery that breaks the wind can be helpful here. Martagons and tigers may not need staking, as their more flexible stems sway rather than snap. Asian lilies rarely need it since they are much shorter.
If you have deer, you will probably need to net your lilies as they approach bud stage, or put them behind a deer-proof fence. There’s nothing more disappointing than finding every. single. bud. eaten!
Finally, during and after bloom you should deadhead, but leave as much stem and foliage standing as you can tolerate. The roots need the leaves to replenish lost energy. Wait until the stems start turning yellow before cutting down to the ground, usually in late fall.
Lily Companions
Everything looks good with lilies, fortunately. It’s hard to go wrong. One tip is not to mix upward-facing and downward-facing lilies together or they will look chaotic. Keep them separate for the most harmonious look.
Likewise, be careful mixing too many contrasting colors unless you like a haphazard effect. Lilies look best in clumps of 3 to 5 plants of the same variety in triangular groupings about a foot apart. Short ornamental grasses make a lovely foil, and will soften the stiffer cultivars.
Tall lilies can be paired with tall perennials such as thalictrum, digitalis, delphinium, veronicastrum, echinacea, helenium, agapanthus, and climbing roses to name a few. Conifers and hedges make fantastic backdrops. In front, you can always hide leggy feet with any number of dwarf conifers, salvias, catmints, daylilies, or box.
You can even grow lilies in a pot! I haven’t tried this, but I plan to. I’ve seen potted white Casa Blancas beautifully frame a formal front entry flanked with clipped topiary. Just stunning!
I think you’ll agree that lilies are versatile, elegant and simply gorgeous. So don’t miss out. Make a plan for growing lilies in your garden today. Yes, they take more care than most perennials, but the reward is well worth the effort.
