Orchids used to be rare and expensive, but not anymore. Thanks to breeding breakthroughs, orchids suitable for home display are now plentiful and affordable year round.
Phalaenopsis or moth orchid is among the loveliest and easiest to grow. If you like orchids even a little, you’ve probably bought or received one as a gift. Their graceful blooms last for weeks. “Phals” look lovely in any setting, formal or informal, and they make the perfect housewarming or holiday gift.
Once the blooms are over though, most people keep their orchid around for a few more weeks, but eventually it gets tossed. Sound familiar? With patience and the right attention, most “phals” can be coaxed to rebloom at least once. So don’t give up on that recalcitrant orchid just yet!
This article is not by any means a thesis on orchid care. It’s a quick narrative designed to help you coax your orchid to bloom again, along with a handy “cheat sheet” for troubleshooting.
Skip to Orchid Troubleshooting Chart.
In Bloom
We usually acquire an orchid in bloom so we can pick the color and enjoy the flowers instantly. Moth orchids come in amazing hues from pure white to vivid pinks and purples, to mottled and splashed combinations.
But such beauty comes at a cost. Orchids are at their most vulnerable when they’re in flower– precisely when they’re packed, trucked and displayed in stores, often under extreme conditions. Some orchids get so shocked their buds fall off. Leaves split and tear, roots rot, and many an orchid is far more stressed than it looks.
In nature, moth orchids bloom between December and May in the northern hemisphere, although I’ve had some last well into June and July. If a retail orchid is flowering at a different time of year, it was most likely forced by the grower or flown in from another part of the world. This means its growth cycle is out of whack, and it may need more time than usual to recover.
For all these reasons and more, orchids could do with some TLC by the time they finally arrive in our hands. Here’s how to help. (I focus almost entirely on moth orchid here, for simplicity and ease of success).
The ride home
Let’s say you’ve spotted a moth orchid or “phal” you want to buy, perhaps at the supermarket or florist display case.
Examine it thoroughly and ensure it’s pest-free with healthy, unmarred leaves. Any air roots should be intact and a pale silvery green color, with no dried up ends or shriveled sections. The flower stalk should not show signs of having been trimmed or broken. If it’s not wrapped already, enclose it in cellophane or a flower bag to shield it from drafts. Once in the car, keep it out of direct sun and away from vents and open windows. Don’t leave it in the car unattended for any length of time.
Once home, check if the pot has a drain hole. (It shouldn’t need water, but check to be sure.) Discard any foil or plastic wrap. If it’s in plastic pot, nest it inside a slightly larger decorative container, both to protect your furniture and to slow evaporation around the roots.
Pick a spot for it that’s not in direct sun or exposed to drafts. Moth orchids look fantasic anywhere, and it should continue to bloom well for you. If it’s on a mantel, remember to temporarily move it when you light a fire. Most fireplaces emit much too warmth for orchids.
Out of bloom
After the flowers finish, trim off the old stalk and move it to as hospitable a spot as you can provide to encourage growth. Now is the time to give your orchid extra care. The closer you can replicate the conditions it needs to thrive, the better your chances for rebloom later.
The single best thing you can do is provide regular minimal care, preferably weekly.
The good news is nearly all ailing, depleted or abused moth orchids can be brought around to a thriving state. It just takes time and the right conditions along with regular attention. Fifteen minutes a week can make the difference between more flowers and none.
Let’s take optimal growing conditions one at a time.
Temperature
A common reason moth orchids don’t rebloom is a temperature range that doesn’t fluctuate enough. They need about a fifteen-degree swing to trigger blooming. In the northern hemisphere, this condition occurs naturally in fall with highs of 75 F during the day and a low of 60 F at night. That’s a big swing to replicate indoors without a greenhouse.
Luckily, phals can be coaxed to flower within a range of about 64 to 72 if they get good light and are fertilized properly. Any less of a swing in either direction though, and your orchid may not cooperate.
Between December and May you can try moving an unresponsive orchid to either a cooler nighttime spot or a brighter daytime spot for a few weeks, then return it to its original location. This will often stimulate a reluctant orchid to “get with the program,” but not always.
My house rarely exceeds 71 F in winter. As a result my orchids reliably develop buds, but sometimes stall and don’t progress. A nudge of the thermostat, a move to a cooler nighttime temperature or a bit more light is usually necessary.
Light
Moth orchids like even, indirect light year round. This is most easily accomplished in a bright room with north-facing windows. Pale surfaces like white walls and sills are ideal because they reflect and diffuse the light, casting an even dispersal. You don’t have to worry about sun scorch or too much heat, either.
Next best is east-facing with blinds or sheers to filter morning sun. Many growers prefer east light. I often move my orchids to an east window for a few weeks in winter.
West-facing windows outfitted with protection against harsh afternoon rays would be my third choice. Avoid south-facing windows entirely unless they have excellent light filtering. If you’re lucky enough to have a sun room or conservatory with abundant indirect light, you have ideal conditions. In fact you probably grow great houseplants already!
Avoid direct sun especially in summer. If your orchid foliage has yellow or whitish rough patches (see photo below) it was exposed to too much sun. Exposure as short as an hour can burn an orchid. While the damage can’t be reversed, scorched orchids can go on to flower, provided they are rescued promptly.
An exception to the “no sun” rule is in the depths of winter, when the sun’s rays are at their weakest and low in the sky. Short periods of winter sun is usually tolerated and can even be beneficial. Several of my orchids face west but at an oblique angle to the winter sun. I move them to a north window in summer.
If you don’t have adequate natural lighting, consider getting a grow light. There are various affordable, attractive styles available.
Humidity and positioning
Orchids love humidity and good air circulation, but not drafts. This can be a challenge in homes with heat pumps and whole-house air conditioning. Kitchens, baths and laundry rooms are often the best places for orchids because they generate humidity when in use.
Being rainforest plants, most orchids appreciate supplemental moisture in the air and on their foliage. Leaves that are thin, floppy, very dull, cracked or withered are all signs the plant is dehydrated. If you’ve been watering regularly and the roots appear healthy (green and fat), try adding more humidity.
Other ways to increase humidity:
- Mist orchid foliage at least weekly but avoid the flowers. An inexpensive (or recycled) plastic bottle with a spray nozzle works great. Avoid wetting the foliage to the point of runoff.
- Group orchids together or with other houseplants like African violets and ferns to create a microclimate. The plants’ group transpiration will help to keep the immediate vicinity humid.
- Position near a sink or shower. My orchids love my kitchen window at the sink where humidity is greatest and the area is bright. It’s also a really convenient spot for me to mist them.
- A steamy bath or laundry room with some natural light is another great option, provided you don’t forget about them.
Water
Watering seems to trip people up the most. The internet is awash (sorry) wiith conflicting advice. Different mediums and varieties require different amounts, there are seasonal and situational variables to consider, and finally, everyone has their own idea as to what works and what doesn’t.
Here are my suggestions; tailor them as you see fit. You’ll soon develop your own routine. The important thing is to water (with or without fertilizer) regularly, carefully, and consistently.
How often? Start out weekly. Bark-based mediums may need slightly more frequent watering, while spagnum-based plants can often go longer than a week. If the pot has side slits or air vents, it will need watering more often than a solid or unvented plastic pot.
It is better to water thoroughly once a week than in dribs and drabs. In fact it’s desirable for the root medium to dry out entirely between waterings, provided the time frame once dry is short: a few days at most.
Each orchid will have its own particular needs, and minor adjustments will be necessary. Don’t worry, you’ll get the hang of it quickly.
TIP: It’s helpful to judge when to water by weight. A pot that feels light in your hand is doubtless ready for a drink. If in doubt, remove the inner pot and visually check for moisture around the roots.
- For orchids in bark or coir — Assuming your orchid has an inner plastic pot with drain holes, lift it out from its outer pot and hold it over a sink or container. Pour water into the top until it runs out the bottom, which it should do immediately. Allow the pot to drain unrestricted for several minutes to ensure all excess water has exited before replacing it.
- For cut-away ceramic pots with attached saucer; clay pots– Do the same as above and drain well. Wipe away any drips and dry the bottom. Orchids without inner plastic pots dry out faster, so check them every few days until you get a feel for their needs. Better yet, repot in plastic and “nest” that in a larger ceramic pot.
- For orchids in spagnum moss — Spagnum moss, when used as an orchid medium (not to be confused with decorative moss) works best when it’s wet to damp. Once spagnum becomes bone dry it won’t absorb water very well. On the other hand, too much water can make it soggy. Water sparingly at first; the moss should be barely damp from the last watering. Moist moss will release water much more slowly than bark.
- Orchids love moss, but it’s easy to over-saturate the medium. Err on the side of less water rather than more. Dry is much easier to correct! UPDATE: I have since learned that it’s fine to completely drench moss-based orchids, provided the pot has excellent drainage and al excess water is allowed to drain away before putting the orchid back in its decorative container. Because they release moisture slowly they need less frequent waterings.
- If there is no drainage hole — Check the moisture level regularly by sticking your finger into the medium. After watering, always turn the pot upside down (while holding the orchid in) to ensure all excess water drains out.
TIP: If you tend to overwater or the pot has no drainage, try using a 1-ounce shot glass for a measure, not an ice cube. The amount is the same as an ice cube, but tepid water is far kinder to orchids than ice.
Ice Cubes? Not So Much
I know, I know– I’ve seen the hype and tried the ice cube trick, with “meh” results and zero rebloom. If you’ve had good luck with ice, congrats– you clearly have the magic touch! There’s even a line of orchids called “Just Add Ice” but it’s marketing hype, folks. While it’s true ice cubes won’t kill orchids, they can encourage root shock. Do your orchids a favor: use warm, tepid to slightly cool water only. We’re after thriving and positive growth here, not merely survival.
Water Quality
Please use filtered, rain or distilled water. If hard tap water is all you’ve got, pour some into a container a day or so in advance of watering so the chlorine can dissipate. Likewise, soft water can leave salts behind unless it’s been through a reverse osmosis filter. If you’re fertilizing with a water-based solution, mix it by the gallon and store at room temperature in a repurposed milk jug. That way, it will always be the right temperature when you’re ready to water.
TIP: Separate orchids from fruit –Bananas and orchids don’t mix! That’s because ripening fruit give off a gas called ethylene that orchids don’t appreciate. So keep kitchen orchids on opposite ends of the counter from your fruit bowl, or somewhere else entirely.
Growth vs. Flowers
Moth orchids have two phases to their growth cycle. As noted above, blooming is triggered when temperatures start to fluctuate strongly in the fall. At that time they may send out a flower stalk, new air roots, even a new leaf. Buds start opening by late December from the bottom up, and the flowers usually last well into May.
After bloom, the plant enters a brief rest before resuming its foliar growth. Once it begins growing again, you may notice a new leaf or aerial roots; the foliage should be thick and smooth, and light to medium green in color. This is a critical time for the orchid. If it can’t build up enough energy, it won’t rebloom in fall. That’s where fertilization comes in to help things along. If you’ve never fertilized your orchid, or it’s been a while since you did, please consider it now.
How to Fertilize
There are two types of orchid fertilizers on the market: a low-nitrogen one to induce flowering, such as 0-10-10 and a balanced or “all purpose” one to promote foliar growth like 20-10-10. (Actual numbers will vary slightly brand to brand.) The first number is nitrogen, the major nutrient quantity difference between the two.
These fertilizers are sold as soluable powders. You simply substitute the dissolved solution in lieu of plain water when you would normally water your orchids. Just be careful not to burn the aerial roots; it’s very easy to do. It’s unsightly, but usually not serious. Fertilizing at half strength will help prevent this.
TIP: Feed weekly with high-nitrogen (20-10-10) fertilizer year round at half-strength. When you see a flower stalk forming, switch to the low-nitrogen formulation to encourage blooming instead of growth. As soon as flowering peaks, switch back to all-purpose foliar food.
If you have a stalled flower stalk that’s not progressing, try feeding it with the 0-10-10 formula for a few weeks. Don’t overdo it. This formulation can be hard on an orchid beyond its normal flowering window. If a white crust forms on the medium it’s a sign of over-fertilizing. To get rid of it, try flushing the orchid thoroughly with water and drain well, or repot.
Other Reasons An Orchid Won’t Bloom
Aside from the conditions cited above, there are a few other reasons an orchid won’t bloom.
- Too young – Most orchids need to be three years old before they bloom. A very young orchid may simply need time to mature and accumulate enough energy for flowering.
- Forcing – Orchids forced into bloom at the wrong time of year have had their growth cycle disrupted. They often skip a bloom period to rebuild sufficient reserves.
- Root Rot — Eventually the root medium breaks down, causing root rot. At that point the plant cannot absorb enough nutrients to support flowers. The solution is to trim the roots back and repot.
The good news is, moth orchids are quite tough and will hang in there for months on end, even when totally neglected. They will absolutely respond to even minimal attention, as long as the light is adequate and they get watered at least weekly.
If all else fails, repot!
Many, many problems with orchids can be solved by repotting. If your orchid suffered abuse or shock before you got it, if it’s been more than a year since it was last potted up, if it’s showing signs of rot or disease, if it smells bad, the best thing you can do is repot it.
I don’t cover repotting here but there are videos and books to help you out. MissOrchidGirl has a series of great YouTube tutorials for beginners.
Getting Rid of Orchid Gnats – If you have small gnats similar to fruit flies around your orchids, they likely hatched out from the moss or medium. There’s an easy trick to get rid of them. Inexpensive yellow “trap” tags, made just for this purpose (check online) are coated with a sticky, scotch-tape-like substance. Insert a few tags in your pots and the gnats will quickly get stuck on the tags. In a few days they’ll be gone!
Other orchid varieties
Lady’s Slipper or paphiopedilum orchids are house-friendly but need brighter, warmer conditions than moth orchids. Last year as an experiment I purchased two (in bloom) that have yet to rebloom. The leaves turned a darker shade of green, a sign that indicates they wanted more light and heat.
So, I bought a grow light which seems to be helping. Time will tell if it’s enough. I repotted them as well. So far, they are thriving but no signs of budding.
UPDATE (July 2023): One of the ladyslippers has bloomed, while the other languished due to fertilizer burn (lesson learned). I’ve trimmed it and it’s recovering nicely. The flower on this specimen is so deep it is nearly black. The texture is hairy along the edges and rather sticky, surely a lure for flies and gnats in the wild. These orchids, while slow to bloom initially, once in flower stay in bloom for as long as two months.
If your house tends to stay cooler than 72 F in winter and you have no way to provide auxilliary heat, I suggest skipping “paphs”. On the other hand if warm conditions aren’t a problem at your house, try one. They are so dramatic and exotic looking!
Other varieties for warm environments are cattelya and oncidium. These need 80 – 85 F and bright daytime conditions, which can be challenging to provide outside a greenhouse or special setup. I can’t begin to provide those conditions so I don’t grow them.
Troubleshooting
Below is a handy chart you can open (click the link below the image) or download it by clicking the black download button. It lists typical orchid problems, causes and suggested remedies.
For help with repotting, propagating, pest control and growing other types of orchids, consider purchasing a book on orchid care or check out some of the great tutorials online. There are a number on the market and most cover the topic thoroughly. It’s best to consult several sources, however; some online information is misleading. And always be skeptical of marketing hype! Good luck!
