Who doesn’t love the relaxed, carefree gardens of the Mediterranean? Just thinking about that part of the world makes me want to call my travel agent. France, Spain, Greece, Italy and Morocco all have abundant sunshine, low humidity and mild winters, perfect for so many of our favorite plants. If only we had those conditions here. I’m so envious!
Alas, Pennsylvania is not Greece. Many of us have given up on having a similar garden. Clearly, growing Mediterranean plants reliably in zone 6 is all but impossible without a greenhouse, cold frames and plenty of labor, not to mention a healthy budget.
This doesn’t mean the average gardener in zone 6 has to forsake the look entirely. With clever substitutions, a convincingly Mediterranean-like garden (albeit on a small scale) is easily within reach — provided the spot gets good sun. And it’s not that hard to do.
It does take planning though, and perhaps a one-time investment in hardscape. Here’s how.
Because the sunny area of my current property is small I don’t have a Mediterranean garden. I combed through articles, books, websites and videos for what I think are the most salient points and supplemented them with my own ideas for substitutions. Many of the plants I recommend I’ve grown, just not in a full-blown Mediterranean context.
This is a long article. Feel free to skip around by section:
What Makes A Garden Mediterranean
So, What Makes A Garden “Mediterranean”?
There are several characteristics that set Mediterranean gardens apart from other styles: A sunny aspect with shade for relaxation, close proximity to human habitation, frequently a water feature and the use of natural stone.
In a climate where semi-arid land is either inhabited, grazed or farmed, lush vegetation and shade take on heightened value. Every arable scrap is utilized. Towns perch atop cliffs. Vineyards and olive groves blanket the hillsides. For millenia, civilizations have tempered the heat with the most abundant resources at hand– namely stone and clay. The result is thick walls, covered passageways, fired tile and natural stone everywhere.
The flora evolved to cope as well.Tufts of vegetation thread and knot the stony topography like a giant tapestry. By necessity, gardens developed in courtyards and terraces where water, shade and careful tending allowed them to flourish. Smaller trees and scrubby, clumping shrubs typical of arid and semi-arid climates are common.
Translation – You need good sun and at least a pocket of shade, the latter big enough to incorporate outdoor dining or a seat for relaxation. You want a bright, relaxed feel with a mix of evergreens and perennials, plus a few accent plants — not too many colors. A Mediterranean garden is calm and soothing, yet vibrant in an understated way.
The space will look best if it encompasses both in-ground plantings and some hardscape. This could be a patio, pergola, wall, courtyard or entryway. Maybe it’s the corner of a patio. Perhaps it’s the paving around a swimming pool. What a Mediterranean look is not is a scene without any sign of human habitation.
That said, it’s worth noting that prefab decks and pavers, vinyl and other “manufactured” materials are not conducive to a Mediterranean vibe. Neither are flowerbeds packed with colorful annuals and a picket fence. That’s an American look and there’s nothing wrong with it, but it won’t give you the effect you’re after. If you have these features just know the end result may be less convincing.
Greenery – Small to medium evergreens are important elements in a Mediterranean garden. Italian and Mediterranean cypress are not hardy in zone 6, so use columnar juniper, holly or yew instead. Arborvitae works too. They will give the garden all-important vertical interest, especially in winter, and during dry spells.
Avoid a heavy tree canopy except to shade the seating area. If you’re looking to plant a deciduous tree, opt for something mid-sized and flowering like crepe myrtle or rose of Sharon on a standard. A larger choice could be a mountain ash. These species will fit in because they resemble species typical of warmer climates.
For a more common choice, a flowering crabapple or Carolina silverbell would not look out of place either. (Do avoid mimosas, they are very invasive.)
The garden’s hardscape should rely on materials like stone, gravel, fired clay or wood. Foliage really pops against pale warm tones, white, and terracotta. An understated approach using just a few species and colors can be quite stunning.
The right conditions
Now that we know generally what to aim for, let’s consider specifics one at a time. You’ve heard the old adage, “Right plant, right place.” That is never more true than with Mediterranean gardens, because there are a lot of other “rights” to consider besides plants and location!
The right light. One thing a Meditteranean garden cannot do without is good sun– at least 6 hours a day– ideally with a sheltered southern exposure. If you have mostly shade, don’t despair. You can still create a scaled back look, but you’ll need to rely on hardscape to carry the theme.
The photo below shows a shady aspect can still be effective and inviting. The pale-colored gravel and bench keeps things bright, lifting the scene.
The right soil. By “right” in this case, I mean very free-draining, slightly alkaline or chalky, not too rich or fertile. If you have clay, you will need to amend the soil considerably. Test first for ph and add lime if necessary. Mix in plenty of grit, gravel or sand– several shovelfuls per wheelbarrow load– along with generous amounts of vermiculite or perlite. Raised beds are another option. You can never have too much drainage!
The right hardscape. “Hardscape” means what it sounds like: impermeable, non-living raw materials, and structures made from them. Buildings, patios, walls, boulders, metal and wood are all considered hardscape. Mediterranean hardscape in particular includes lots of gravel, natural stone walls and terraces, stucco facades and fired clay tiles.
Let’s look at different hardscapes and how to use them.
Hardscape elements
Structural – If you’re lucky enough to have arches, stucco, stone or pillars on the outside of your home, you’ve got all the makings of a villa garden. If not, consider adding a few steps, an outdoor fireplace, pergola, patio or terrace. Maybe locate a dining spot in a corner or niche between walls. Strive for a sense of enclosure that is open to the breeze while still offering privacy and shade.
Wrought iron – Ironwork gates and panels make excellent hot climate accents. Flowers spilling over an iron railing or balcony is another rave look.
Trellises — Whether bare or festooned with plants, trellises do double duty as decor and support. We can’t grow bougainvillea in Pennsylvania year-round, but an iron or wood trellis (especially one mounted in a pot) lets you grow all types of seasonal vines with ease. Check the plant list at the end of this article for more ideas.
Stone and gravel paths – Gravel provides an instant Mediterranean vibe for very little cost. Irregular flagstones and fieldstone pavers work well too. Herbs along the margins only heighten the effect, as the photo below illustrates. This is a great trick for any size garden, large or small.
Be sure to add sharp contractor grit under the decorative layer for stability. (Landscape cloth is optional but I’ve found it unnecessary.)
Gravel mulch – Gravel insulates roots, suppresses weeds and facilitates drainage. It also disguises bare gaps beautifully. Light colors look best.
Accent boulders — Employ landscape rocks and let succulents or xeric plants scramble amongst them. Boulders add textural contrast and create the perception of rocky terrean, helping to break up flat areas.
Urns, jars, planters – A big clay pot or urn makes a strong focal point. Fill with annuals and bulbs or use empty. Resin pots in earth tones make convincing facsimiles and are much lighter to move. (The older I get, the more I appreciate such cheating!)
Pots introduce color and texture exactly where you want it. They are just wonderful for tender hibiscus, agapathus, dracaena, lavender, succulents and tropicals of all kinds. Make good use of them!
Walls, steps and patios – If your garden is flat or featureless consider adding an elevation change or wall. Warm tones will create the vibe you want, as walls are an iconic Mediterranean feature. Dry-laid ones have the benefit of crevices for tucking in succulents and xeric plants.
Tile — Add a decorative accent with tile. Lay a few (non-slippery) ones in a path, grout them onto a side table, outline a door, mount one on a wall. Tiles and mosaics says “Mediterranean” like few other details can. For a whimsical touch, line a small pool or rim the edge with them.
Sound like too much work? A single mosiac or tile-patterned planter can be enough to set the right mood.
A water feature – The sound of dripping water is an important aspect of Mediterranean gardens, especially paradise gardens. Whether you use a fountain, burbling water jar or a circulating pump in a small pool, do consider adding a water feature. Even a bird bath will do. Just make sure it’s easy to clean and winterize.
Plant Substitutions
Now we come to the challenging part–the plants! We usually picture great mounds of lavender, rosemary, gnarled old olive trees, perhaps spiky agave and fan palms. Since none these survive very well here, we need alternatives that offer a similar look.
Let’s not forget fragrance. Most dry climates feature vegetation with very aromatic foliage, if not the flowers too. Nothing beats the sun-kissed scents of rosemary, sage, lavender, mint and pelargonium. A fragrant jasmine vine or climbing rose adds a luxurious touch. Climbing Iceberg (white), Golden Celebration (yellow), Teasing Georgia (yellow-peach), Awakening (pale pink), Gertrude Jekyl (hot pink), and Blaze (bright red) are all terrific possibilities.
Below are three Mediterranean gardens I gathered from around the web. Under each, I’ve suggested substitutions that will create a similar effect and thrive in zone 6. There are many possibilities.
A Mediterranean Path
Suggestions – Instead of Mexican feather grass and pink society garlic, try pink, apricot and lavender bearded iris (flowering in late spring), tall garden phlox (summer), allium Summer Beauty (summer) and anemone Robustissima (fall).
Pair them with short fluffy grasses like dwarf fountain grass instead of weedy, difficult-to-control Mexican feather grass. For a slightly taller look (3 feet) try pennisetum Karley Rose. Pink Dianthus or white snow-in-summer (Cerastium) will contribute a silvery groundcover as well as spring flowers. Iris pallida with its golden variegated foliage provides a convincing spiky counterpoint.
Under an open canopy
In the inviting scene below, the sprawl of a lovely old tree beckons. We can’t grow live oaks or acacias here but a standard apple, deciduous magnolia or Japanese maple could be pruned (over time) to expose similar branch structure and admit more light. The effect is welcoming and relaxed. Despite the overhead leaf cover the garden feels light and airy, aided by the pale color of the stone.
Plant Options: Sea thrift is sold in zone 6 but I’ve not had much luck with it. I like betony Cotton Candy better and alliums Summer Drummer and Summer Beauty; all are fairly short and summer-flowering with long bloom periods. Creeping thyme is often suggested for between pavers, but I find it to be short-lived here. Silver Carpet is not hardy in zone 6; Bluestar creeper, creeping phlox, blue-eyed grass or cerastium (snow-in-summer) are other possibilities.
To replace the fortnight lilies, Adam’s Needle yucca or white phlox David will add height and contrast. Iris, a bushy penstemon like hot magenta Red Rocks and robust lavender Phenomenal complete this look. (Phenomenal withstands humidity and wet winters better than English and French lavenders. If you want those varieties, I suggest you grow them in pots to be on the safe side.)
Finally, mulch everything with a beige gravel, blurring the line between path and plantings. The garden will magically seem larger!
Exposed Conditions
Here is a very different setting, wide open to the elements including baking sun, but still very Mediterranean in feel. With the distant hills in the background it is at once serene and dramatic. The precise species in the photo are unknown, but an approximation is easy to imagine.
In a setting like this I would use catmint, lambs ear, artemisia, salvia, perovskia, potentilla, and medium native grasses Little Bluestem and Shenandoah switchgrass. Shenandoah develops burgundy tones as the season progresses, and Little Bluestem turns wine red in fall. Rosy dark-foliaged weigela Spilled Wine could stand in for the shrub in the left foreground, echoing the grasses’ coloring.
Potentilla resembles cliff rose from a distance and is available with yellow, red or pale pink flowers. It would make a convincing substitute.
Shrubs in scale with the larger landscape allow for many choices. For instance columnar-shaped conifers like juniper, holly or cryptomeria would look right at home. The earthy stone and unglazed jar connect us to the land, while the turquoise water and blue perovskia set up the perfect contrast. The effect is so simple, yet sublime. You don’t tire of it.
I hope I’ve convinced you by now that a Mediterranean vibe is not out of the question! It really is very doable.
A Mediterranean Plant List for Zone 6
Here is an extensive plant list but it’s not comprehensive by any means. Rather than mention every cultivar I’ve just given the common names and Latin genus in most cases.
