You may already know the Appalachian Trail (AT) is a 2200-mile footpath spanning fourteen states from Georgia to Maine, much of it over rugged terrain through unspoiled wilderness. What you probably don’t know is how incredibly diverse the ecosystems are that make up the Trail. There are open fields, boulder-strewn waterfalls, wooded forests and fragile alpine meadows. Each has its own flora and fauna. Changing seasons create even more variability.
Even if a hiker is familiar with the many shrubs and wildflowers that populate the AT, it’s still a pleasure to see them growing in their native habitat. Even more special is coming across a rare plant or unusual animals, such as these wild ponies on Mt. Rogers in Virginia.
Two thousand miles is a mighty long trek on foot, with high potential for loneliness, serious accidents and sore feet. But it also affords an unparalleled chance to witness nature up close and personal. For this reason and more, plenty of people are drawn to hiking the AT. My husband Ray not only tried but finished, and he did it in his fifties and sixties. He also documented it with over 3700 photographs.
So let’s take a virtual hike to see of some of the amazing views, plants and animals he found along the way. I’ve assembled a small sampling of his photographs for your enjoyment here.
First, a few fun facts:
How unusual is it to complete the AT?
Since 1936, only about 20,000 people have hiked the trail end to end, from Springer Mountain, Georgia to Katahdin, Maine. About 4000 hikers start each year with the intention of finishing, but only 1 in 4 will complete the trail in their lifetime; 75% never make it, according to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy. Everything from bad weather to accidents to poor planning conspire to make completion a challenge. In some ways, mental fitness is just as important a factor as one’s physical condition.
Which is harder, the Appalachian Trail or the Pacific Coast Trail?
Of the two longest trails in the US, the Pacific Coast Trail is longer at 2650 miles. But according to the elite few who’ve hiked both, the AT is more difficult because of rockier geology, a harsher climate and frequent elevation changes. The PCT offers greater sun exposure while the AT is more rugged and often shaded.
How is the trail marked?
With rectangular white blazes, which are critical particularly in bad weather. Volunteers repaint them every few years, but hikers still get lost on a regular basis. Especially difficult spots may have ladders or metal footholds, but not always.
How long does it take to hike the AT?
On average the AT can be hiked in five to seven months. Most people don’t attempt it in a single stretch because they cannot take time off from work that long. The usual route is to start in Georgia and hike north, taking several years to complete the trail in sections, as circumstances permit. A few hike north to south. Logistics planning is a big factor, as food replenishment, transportation and water must be figured out in advance. Having the right gear helps too.
Perhaps you’ve heard of thru-hikers, fanatics who hike-jog the whole trail in a single season sometimes even at night, competing for the shortest finish times. But thru-hikers are in the minority, and certainly not there to take in the views or appreciate nature. (I’m not sure what they’re there for, other than bragging rights over stats.)
How much effort is involved?
AT finishers called “2000-milers” (rounded off) have a lot to be proud of. They will have traversed a cumulative elevation gain/ loss equivalent to climbing 16 Mt. Everests! That is 89 miles of pure up and down. The hardest sections may incorporate steps, handholds and ladders, but the going can be difficult even in good weather. Add rain, sleet, snow squalls, fog, even gale force winds and conditions can quickly become near-impossible.
How long did it take Ray?
Ray took ten years to complete his odyssey and hiked several sections more than once. Most years he went with a buddy or two, not only for companionship but for safety. I accompanied him for a Virginia section one year, along with the dog. I loved it, but I also was grateful to head back to civilization when the time came. There’s no way I could have done what Ray did. For me, camping has its limits!
So why do it?
Thru-hikers aside, whether or not someone finishes isn’t really the point. Motivations are as varied as the people who hike. Some say it’s the experience of making purposeful effort under challenging circumstances, of “finding” oneself, bonding with friends and building esteem. Thousands of blogs, books and campfire stories are testament to that.
Yet above all, everyone agrees life on the Trail is about revelling in nature and its restorative power to heal the soul. The AT may be filled with miles of boring understory and a gazillion rocks, but it rewards perseverence with unforgettable views, crisp alpine air, stupendous geological formations, amazing plant life. It is truly an experience of a lifetime.
A note about Ray’s photographs
All photos were shot with a small camera (not a cell phone) so quality is variable. I’ve grouped them without regard to where they were taken, simply for visual effect. Vista shots are scattered throughout. Some species and most fungi remain unidentified.
Finally, it is heartening to know much of the scenery and the AT itself is now protected for future generations. To learn more, visit the Appalachian Trail Conservancy in Harpers Ferry, Virginia.
Trail Photo Galleries
The AT takes many forms depending on the terrain. Southern states have more meadows and balds, a type of treeless hilltop. Pennsylvania, New York and New Jersey are known for rocks, roots and the “green tunnel effect” of endless woods. New England features lots of granite, bogs, waterfalls and alpine peaks. Ponds and mountain streams punctuate the landscape all along the trail, in every state.
Some accommodations are provided to assist hikers at various points. For instance, stiles allow hikers to climb over barbed wire fencing without entanglement. Iron rebar is embedded in sheer rock faces in some spots. Huts and lean-tos provide more substantial shelter than tenting.
A perfect spider web catches the light. Being alert to the smallest details on a hike adds greatly to the enjoyment.
Wildflowers are everywhere. Ray photographed over three dozen species including wood sorrel, painted trillium, bottle gentian, dwarf iris, aquatic pickerel weed, wild larkspur, galax and more.
Bodies of water run the gamut from falls to streams, alpine lakes, beaver ponds and bogs. Both white and yellow water lilies are abundant.
The next two shots remind me more of Africa than the AT! Buff grasses and certain tree silhouettes mimic those found in dry savannahs. The single tree silhouette was taken in Georgia.
Interesting fungi like shelf fungus, amanita mushrooms and lichens dot the trail, especially in the fall.
Boulders and rock formations are a key feature of the trail and often must be navigated, as you can see by the blazes at the top of the boulder pile pictured below. The small rock suspended in midair by two granite slabs is called the Guillotine. It’s a famous landmark not far from the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia. The trail passes directly under it.
Rocky rubble as far as the eye can see is harder to walk on than it looks. Talk about ankle-turning! This is where the right hiking boots and poles really pay off. It’s also ridiculously easy to veer away the trail if you’re not paying attention. Lichens tint the rocks greenish, while a faint white line of blazes indicates the path forward.
I tried day hiking on the top of Mt. Washington (elev. 6288′) where the AT crosses it. The terrain is covered in scree as shown above and the altitude quickly winded me. It was painstakingly slow going to cover any appreciable distance. Sections like this are just one of the many obstacles hikers must contend with. Imagine doing this in thick fog or a sudden snow squall!
Below, a tree in the process of subsuming a boulder takes on the shape of a dinosaur. Dead branches add drama to a vista. The sheer scale of the landscape is awe-inspiring.
Here are more flowers and shrubs including brilliant red fire pinks, bunchberry, bluebead lily, yarrow, false hellebore (leaves just emerging) and plume-like fly poison. The AT is well known for its mature groves of pink Catawba rhododendron and gorgeous Flame azalea in spring.
Colorful lichens and scrub hug the ground by an outcropping; spring mayapples carpet a glen in emerald green. Alpine meadows above treeline seem to stretch endlessly in all directions.
Reptile sightings were common. Ray photographed at least five snakes including a copperhead (among the violet leaves,top right) along with lots of frogs, turtles, salamanders, invertebrates and butterflies.
Autumn on the trail is especially beautiful. Dramatic colors and cool temperatures make for ideal hiking and camping.
These vistas illustrate numerous wilderness ecosystems, each rich with diverse plant and animal life. Whether spring, summer or fall, there is usually something colorful to inspire the lucky viewer.
Of course on some days the views are fogged in or rain-drenched, depriving the weary hiker of a hard-earned reward. This can be quite disappointing, as there’s usually only one chance to see a major vista before having to move on. A hot meal might be that day’s only gratification. Ray was lucky to have good weather much of the time.
One of the rarest flowers on the AT is Robbin’s Cinquefoil, below. It only grows in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The largest population, about 2000 plants, are concentrated on the peak of Mt. Washington in a fragile alpine ecosystem of rocky scree, where these photos were taken. (They are roped off to keep hikers from trampling them.)
Robbin’s cinquefoil is only found at high elevations because it uses frequent freeze-thaw cycles to outcompete other vegetation. As with many alpine plants it is tiny; a twenty-five-year-old plant can be the size of a quarter! This one was a bit larger. Many types of sedum grow there as well, sharing the climate with Mt. Washington’s cog railway. When the train car comes into view, it makes you wonder if you’ve suddenly been tranported to the Alps!
One of many “little gray birds”, ubiquitous on the trail, perches on lookout duty. They flit so fast they are nearly impossible to identify with certainty, so Ray just called them LGBs.
Parasitic squawroot or bear corn is a fascinating plant. It has no chlorophyll and feeds on the roots of oak trees. The flowers resemble whorled corn cobs. Black bears ravage this plant upon emerging from hibernation, which in turn helps to distribute the plant’s seeds.
Speaking of bears, here’s a black bear cub up a tree. His twin was farther up, while Momma Bear kept a watchful eye below. Needless to say, Ray quickly backtracked after taking this photo. Mother bears with cubs can be especially dangerous if they perceive their cubs are being threatened.
On one other occasion, Ray startled an adult male bear foraging directly on the trail. There’s no picture since Ray was busy waving his arms and yelling, Shoo! Shoo! The bear reared up on his hind legs to get a better look, then ambled off. Luckily the encounter ended without incident. It pays to know what to do in such instances. Bears are active along much of the AT, and hikers are warned to heed all safety measures.
The tallest yellow poplar in the country, below, has since died. At the time this photo was taken it was still alive but barely and is located in North Carolina. Ray had to piece together three separate images to capture the whole tree. It’s hard to get a sense of its size here, but it was a mammoth specimen– estimated at 192 feet tall.
In spring, colonies of mountain laurel and trilliums light up the woods in many spots, especially in Pennsylvania. The white fluffy flower on the left looks like thalictrum or wild clematis; I can’t be sure.
The trail is often stunningly beautiful yet so different in character depending on where it is. While hiking certain sections can certainly be boring, the monotony typically doesn’t last…too long!
Here’s a grand old chestnut, once a common species throughout North America. Our forests were filled with them before they got chestnut blight and succumbed by the millions, like this one. Most have decayed but a few majestic trunks still stand as testament to their former glory. American chestnuts are now all but extinct.
More shots of the trail with lichens, toadstools, a blueberry bog, and scenic vistas, sometimes above the clouds.
Here we are, hiking a section of Virginia with our German shepherd, Hulie. The dog carried his own food and water because we certainly couldn’t! Our packs look heavy and they were, but they were well-balanced and actually quite comfortable.
Years later on a sweltering day atop Mount Katahdin, Ray finishes his ten-year quest and poses to document his accomplishment. That smile tells me he’s pretty happy, and deservedly so. Congratulations, official 2000-miler!
That’s all, folks. I hope you enjoyed this virtual tour. As for the friendships forged, the planning, the gear, logistics and all the rest, that’s a much longer story for another day.
If you can, get out and hike yourself this summer, if only for a weekend or an afternoon. It certainly doesn’t have to be the AT. Not in shape? Start with a stroll around the block, in a park or down a country lane, as long as it’s somewhere leafy. There’s nothing quite like a walk to lift the spirit.
Adrienne, what an excellent article! This took me back a few years (as you well know). Take care and feel free to provide more detail in more articles!
Thanks Lee! I enjoyed writing it almost as much as hiking. Brought back lots of great memories! So glad you liked it.